The writing is a review towards the restaurant called "The Ninth". It's opened by a chef named Jun Tanaka on London's Charlotte Street. The name was determined because it's the ninth restaurant he's been involved.
The writer turns up to think this restaurant is amazing. He admires its foods in very humorous and unique way. Here is the sample of what he says.
"The killer detail is the limpid pool of a perfectly clarified oxtail consomme in which all this sits; it's the very essence of moo"
"Sip some of this, and then realize they are wasting everybody's time and money"
"It barely needs saying, but make a dish like this you need the kind of formal training that only Tanaka's eight restaurant-long career so far could gift him"
At the end, he concluded that he does not think Tanaka needs to move on to his 10th establishment any day soon because the restaurant is surely an awesome one.
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/may/01/the-ninth-restaurant-review-jay-rayner
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